Locations of non-kill rescues/shelters?

**Joeolney** · 07-27-2012, 11:51 AM

It pains me to ask this question but we took on two sisters, 2 years old, who are quite adorable and loving but just do not get along with our existing two cats, who have taken to living in one room. There are daily fights still after 4 months and we feel they are just not happy here and should have a more stress free home. The girl we got them from is of course not returning emails or phone calls and we have exhausted our resources.

We have never had to give any pets away before and are looking for a place that could foster them until they can be placed. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Joe

**Sailaway** · 07-27-2012, 10:32 PM

The Animal Adoption Center in Lindenwold is no-kill. I think there may be one in Pennsauken, too. Hope that helps but hopefully someone has some insight that can help everybody get along a little better.

**rubeschanks** · 07-27-2012, 11:42 PM

Check out FELIWAY for Cats - Official Site

I have seen the plug in version of this product used many many times with great success. It relaxes the cats a little bit, making them feel more at ease. Nothing like Prozac or a heavy duty psychotropic med, but a pheromone that takes the edge off a little bit.
I would also go back to the beginning with the cats, separating them and slowly introducing them over several weeks. First, give each set of cats items with the other cats scents on them, then place them in an area where they can see each other but not directly interact, then start short visitations. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat (ideally, one more box than cats) as well as food and water bowls for each kitty.
They may never all be buddies, but they could be roommates and learn to live with one another.

**Gladys** · 07-28-2012, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by Joeolney

It pains me to ask this question but we took on two sisters, 2 years old, who are quite adorable and loving but just do not get along with our existing two cats, who have taken to living in one room. There are daily fights still after 4 months and we feel they are just not happy here and should have a more stress free home. The girl we got them from is of course not returning emails or phone calls and we have exhausted our resources.

We have never had to give any pets away before and are looking for a place that could foster them until they can be placed. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I appreciate your difficulty but do not, i repeat, do not take your cats to a shelter. It is kitten season and the shelters are ALL filled to over capacity. They may not kill them but they may send them somewhere who will and almost definitely will separate them.

You obviously love them so my best advice for you is continue to search for solution... ample litter boxes etc... or find them homes yourself. Contact this group on facebook for advice.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/175436735837050/

these people are cat experts and would most certainly be able to help.

Now is the busiest time of year for shelters regarding cats, if you wish them to have a good future now is not the time to bring them in.

Here is another group who may be able to advise you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/PhilaAreaRescuers/

Hang in, the cats may still co exist. It takes a VERY long time sometimes. but some of the people in these groups should be able to offer advice.

**Beutelratte** · 07-29-2012, 01:01 AM

Another thing that may help: "tuna conferences". I added a neutered male cat to a household with another neutered male, and they did the same thing - daily fights, each retreating to a separate room.

So I gave them both regular food, water, and litter box in their "chosen" rooms for two weeks, to stop them having to meet and fight. After they both got comfortable, I offered a really fragrant favorite treat (in this case, both loved canned tuna). Started with the plates literally 10 feet apart in a "neutral" room, and just a light snack's worth on the plate. If anybody growls or hisses, the plates get taken up. That wasn't a problem at 10 feet, but each day I moved the plates about a foot closer together. Within two weeks, they were eating on side-by-side plates. They were never the best of friends, but they tolerated one another after that.

Maybe I was lucky, but it worked for me, and I hope it might help someone else. Granted, we had a sad chuckle several years later after they had both passed away, when we decided not to place their ashes on the same bookcase - they wouldn't like it.

**BeckyJ** · 07-29-2012, 03:39 PM

I second the Feliway idea and the idea of reintroducing them. We had issues with our oldest cat going after the younger one and peeing all over the place. After talking with the vet and making sure there wasn't something else wrong, we started using the Feliway. We have one in the hallway and one in our bedroom. Haven't had any problems since.

**Joeolney** · 07-30-2012, 01:24 PM

Thanks everyone for the comments. I will check out the Feliway. never heard of it. The recent events that made us decide that they needed a new home was that one of the two new ones was not using the litter box consistently. There was no rhyme or reason to the events but occasionally there would be a pile on the carpet. She also seemed to be targeting our daughter a few times but she now keeps her bedroom door shut to prevent that from happening again. I can put up with the climate and know what they may never all get along but not using the litter for us was the last straw. We too have noticed that because of the time of year, any place we could take them was not accepting new members so for now we will try the suggestions given here. We really want them to stay as they are much more people cats than our existing cats. We currently have two litters because we had one litter for the existing cats for years and that was fine so I thought that another one for two more would be fine. The first incident didn't happen until about two months after we got them so I never considered that the number of litters was too small.

**gymdude** · 07-30-2012, 04:24 PM

Originally Posted by rubeschanks

Check out FELIWAY for Cats - Official Site

I have seen the plug in version of this product used many many times with great success. It relaxes the cats a little bit, making them feel more at ease. Nothing like Prozac or a heavy duty psychotropic med, but a pheromone that takes the edge off a little bit.
I would also go back to the beginning with the cats, separating them and slowly introducing them over several weeks. First, give each set of cats items with the other cats scents on them, then place them in an area where they can see each other but not directly interact, then start short visitations. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat (ideally, one more box than cats) as well as food and water bowls for each kitty.
They may never all be buddies, but they could be roommates and learn to live with one another.

I'm in agreement with the above poster. I would suggest sequestering (sp?) the two newer cats to a seperate bedroom. Food, Water, toys and litter box in the room as well. Introducing new cats to a home with resident cats is always a slow process. The more patience you have, the better the outcome. You need to keep in mind that your resident cats have 'marked' your entire home and claimed it has theirs. For lack of better words. They will slowly need to realized that they'll need to share the home. I would suggest purchasing two baby gates that can easily be installed/removed thus creating a wall of sorts (one on top of the other) where the resident cats and new cats can see each other (and touch each other with their paws) yet at the same time prevents them from getting at each other. Once you feel comfortable that they won't attack each other, begin supervised interaction with all the cats for short amounts of time, slowly increasing the duration of their interaction. Any sign of hostility, the new cats go back in the spare bedroom, close the door, and begin again at a later time. There is no set schedule for this introduction, it could take day, a week, month or even a year. You just must be willing to commit to the process. You also need to keep in mind that all the cats may never be the best of friends. They'll just learn to coexist and live AROUND each other.
I hope this help. Any questions, feel free to contact me. I'm no Cat Whisperer but I am a veteren volunteer at a SPCA shelter in my area.

**BeckyJ** · 07-30-2012, 05:40 PM

Oh, and you can get Feliway on Amazon (with the diffuser); much less expensive than the vet....

**annie** · 07-30-2012, 08:29 PM

Originally Posted by Beutelratte

Another thing that may help: "tuna conferences". I added a neutered male cat to a household with another neutered male, and they did the same thing - daily fights, each retreating to a separate room.

For a second I thought you might have tried this crazy remedy I heard of once at a party. This couple moved in together but their cats weren't approving the merger so they read online somewhere that they could put tuna on the upper backs of each cat (where the cat couldn't reach on its own) and lock them in a bathroom. "They're going to lick each other until they like each other."

**Joeolney** · 08-07-2012, 11:52 AM

Thanks for the Facebook groups Gladys. In reading more about this issue I consider myself lucky given some of the stories out there about relocation stress, etc. We have never had any type of issue like this before. And the issue at hand is one of the new cats sporadically not using the litter box. The fighting has actually calmed down a bit. There does not seem to be a pattern to when she decides to not use it. I recently got a bigger litter since she is rather large but that did nothing. The morning after we gave her that, she crapped on the rug a few feet away twice. I took the hood off last night as I remember reading long ago that some cats don't like that. less crap on the rug but there was still some but most was in the litter. It seems as though she starts going in the litter and then steps out and finishes outside. her and her sister did come with the clump-able litter but we've used Jonny cat for years so I got rid of it. Perhaps this is the behavior of not liking the litter? but why would she use it sometimes and not others? And if it is the litter, why was there not issues immediately? We've had them since April and this just started a month ago. This is very frustrating. I really wish they could speak English!!

**ColeenH** · 08-09-2012, 08:02 AM

In addition to the suggestions already made, check out the book "Cat vs. Cat" by Pam Johnson-Bennett, and also this page: http://sites.google.com/site/petsboa...new-cat-kitten

**rubeschanks** · 08-10-2012, 08:14 PM

Glad you decided to try and work with everyone, try not to get discouraged. Here are a few pointers:

1) Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat, you want a box at least twice as long as the cat. Most cat litter boxes are too small, I recommend plastic sweater bins you can get at target.
2) To cats, multiple litter boxes next to each other are one big box. Separate the boxes around the house as best you can to give multiple options
3) If the issue is possibly the litter type, you can try different litters in different boxes and see who shows a preference.
4) Most cats like to see what is going on around them when going to the bathroom, so they do not like covers. Remove them. A nice analogy is thinking about a covered litter box as a port-a-potty. Yuck!
5) For the cat pooping outside the box, check a stool sample with the vet to make sure no intestinal parasites. Also, cats who have arthritis can have trouble positioning themselves in the box for BM or urinating, depends on what joints are affected. Something you can talk to your vet about.

Great website: Indoorpet.osu.edu. Ohio State Vet school Indoor cat initiative

**Joeolney** · 08-13-2012, 04:19 PM

Originally Posted by rubeschanks

Glad you decided to try and work with everyone, try not to get discouraged. Here are a few pointers:

1) Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat, you want a box at least twice as long as the cat. Most cat litter boxes are too small, I recommend plastic sweater bins you can get at target.
2) To cats, multiple litter boxes next to each other are one big box. Separate the boxes around the house as best you can to give multiple options
3) If the issue is possibly the litter type, you can try different litters in different boxes and see who shows a preference.
4) Most cats like to see what is going on around them when going to the bathroom, so they do not like covers. Remove them. A nice analogy is thinking about a covered litter box as a port-a-potty. Yuck!
5) For the cat pooping outside the box, check a stool sample with the vet to make sure no intestinal parasites. Also, cats who have arthritis can have trouble positioning themselves in the box for BM or urinating, depends on what joints are affected. Something you can talk to your vet about.

Great website: Indoorpet.osu.edu. Ohio State Vet school Indoor cat initiative

Thanks for your suggestions. I have done most of what you wrote already. I got a bigger litter, took the hood off, and tried a different kind of litter. Sometimes she uses the box, sometimes she doesn't. it is really frustrating. Also, one of the first things we did was to take a stool sample, even before the issue with going outside the box occured because it was then and still is rather loose. Getting close to 5 months now with this issue. I know you are supposed to hang in there but when do you have to concede that sometimes it is just not going to work out?

**rubeschanks** · 08-16-2012, 11:15 PM

Chronic loose stool can be a sign of food sensitivity, food allergy, or even Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). I would consider talking to your vet about switching her over to a prescription limited ingredient or hypoallergenci diet +/- a course of Metronidazole to help the intestinal inflammation that usually accompanies soft stool. I have seen many many cats with stomach/intestinal issues helped this way.

**rubeschanks** · 08-16-2012, 11:17 PM

P.S. And anyone who quotes Peter Gabriel in their signature is alright in my book...

**Joeolney** · 08-17-2012, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by rubeschanks

Chronic loose stool can be a sign of food sensitivity, food allergy, or even Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). I would consider talking to your vet about switching her over to a prescription limited ingredient or hypoallergenci diet +/- a course of Metronidazole to help the intestinal inflammation that usually accompanies soft stool. I have seen many many cats with stomach/intestinal issues helped this way.

We took her to the vet after a few weeks of the loose stools and brought a sample. At first we thought it was the stress of the move but thought it would be safe just to have it checked out when it persisted. They did prescribe science diet (I forget which version) but there was no change. We now are giving her the IAMs sensitive stomach dry food. Now it doesn't seem to be much of a loose stool issue as it seems to be just not using the litter all the time. some mornings we come down and there are no issues. Other mornings there is a pile or two near the litter. We are currently using the Feliway spray and I am applying it to the soiled areas of the rug. I hope this works!!

**Joeolney** · 08-17-2012, 03:49 PM

Originally Posted by rubeschanks

P.S. And anyone who quotes Peter Gabriel in their signature is alright in my book...

Thanks, finally someone who recognizes that!!

**rubeschanks** · 08-19-2012, 04:46 PM

Originally Posted by Joeolney

We took her to the vet after a few weeks of the loose stools and brought a sample. At first we thought it was the stress of the move but thought it would be safe just to have it checked out when it persisted. They did prescribe science diet (I forget which version) but there was no change. We now are giving her the IAMs sensitive stomach dry food. Now it doesn't seem to be much of a loose stool issue as it seems to be just not using the litter all the time. some mornings we come down and there are no issues. Other mornings there is a pile or two near the litter. We are currently using the Feliway spray and I am applying it to the soiled areas of the rug. I hope this works!!

IAMS sens stomach is decent but it is not prescription and may not be stringent enough. Cats can have issues with the protein sources in these foods, so a hypoallergenic diet such as Royal Canin HP or a single protein source, such as Royal Canin Venison or Purina Kangaroo and Oats is needed. And her normal looking stool outside the box could still be due to intestinal/food issues.
The spray is also a good idea, but not strong enough without using a ton at a time. The diffuser in a fquente room is still a better option.

**citykitties** · 08-19-2012, 05:31 PM

Gladys is correct that this is hands-down the worst time to take a cat to a shelter or rescue. We are all packed completely full, and most no-kill rescues and shelters are turning away many animals and/or maintaining a waitlist. We currently have about a 1-2 month waitlist for City Kitties' small network of foster homes.

Re: the litterbox issues, do you have one or more? The magic number is N + 1, where N is the number of cats you have. Adding boxes solves many problems. I strongly recommend trying the other tips in this litterbox behavior guide.

And if you're interested in finding homes for them, here's a guide for that, which includes info on how to screen adopters and a sample adoption application and contract you can use. It's geared towards finding homes for stray cats but can just as easily be used to re-home your own cat.

Best of luck.